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really neutral touching a junction box heard anything|Neutral sparking in panel

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really neutral touching a junction box heard anything|Neutral sparking in panel

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really neutral touching a junction box heard anything

really neutral touching a junction box heard anything I've taken the inside shot of the switch box. 4 wires in total: 1) hot (black, if you can see, old dusty black) 2) white neutral (used to be tied to the box screw) 3) two very dark red for two lights . Get the best deals for Tap and Die Set Vintage at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items!
0 · Why would anyone think that breaking the neutral is a good idea?
1 · Testing for shorted Neutral and Ground Wiring
2 · Shocked by Neutral vs. Ungrounded
3 · Neutral wire is tied to my electric metal box, why is it so?
4 · Neutral sparking in panel
5 · Locating the suspected loose neutral problem
6 · Is the neutral wire considered safe?
7 · If a nicked neutral touches the inside of a junction box, will the
8 · Can neutral shock you inside panel? : r/electricians
9 · Can 120v kill you if you only hold the hot wire? : r/electricians
10 · Broken Neutral, Connect Neutral to Box

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Scenario one: you touch an ungrounded conductor with 120v with one hand and a metal junction box with the other. Boom, you get shocked. Scenario two: you touch the neutral after a load (let's say a lightbulb, with 100 ohms of resistance) with one hand and a metal .

I've taken the inside shot of the switch box. 4 wires in total: 1) hot (black, if you can see, old dusty black) 2) white neutral (used to be tied to the box screw) 3) two very dark red for two lights . If the 'grounded' circuit is somehow opened, then it becomes energized. Touching anything grounded along that open circuit presents the same shock hazard as touching an .Short answer: no. Long answer: Normal breaker will not trip. A GFCI breaker will trip. An AFCI breaker should trip if it's arcing but likely won't trip. A normal breaker will not trip because the . Sounds like that could be an intermittent neutral or an intermittent hot wire. The only way to tell which it is, is to monitor the hot voltage to ground (not neutral) and see if it .

I've heard "You can touch the neutral wire/bar in the breaker box and not get shocked. Only the hot can hurt you." If the circuit is complete and current is flowing, can't you .

Set the meter to ohms. Measure between neutral and ground prong holes at the receptacle. If you get continuity (small number of ohms) then a neutral-ground fault (unwanted .is it actually safe to touch the neutral/ground in a main panel with the main breaker both on and off? At the "main" panel where the neutral and ground are bonded, it should be safe to "touch" .

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Why would anyone think that breaking the neutral is a good idea?

Your enture electrical system should be grounded so that in the event of a fault (say a hot wire touching a junction box) the fault current has an adequate path to ground allowing . Touching the neutral or ground, a device, junction box, conduit, water pipe, steel studs, washer/dryer, another phase, etc. will likely have a path to ground through your body. If .By disconnecting the second junction box from the first I was able to keep power to the first two sets of outlets. I then went to the second junction box and disconnected everything but the switch wiring. At that point the circuit was fine .120v on neutral means broken neutral. Live box means neutral touching box somewhere or perhaps someone bootlegged a ground off the neutral. The neutral has 120v potential because something down the line is plugged in so voltage goes through the device and stops at .

Hi so I’m replacing a doorbell transformer, and because the old transformer wasn’t installed in a junction box I installed a new junction box as well. Got it all wired up (black to black, white to white, and ground to the grounding screw) but when I powered the circuit, according to my voltage pen, there was voltage on the ground and on the . With the 3-wire feeder you have the two hots (240v) and a ground. No neutral. With the 4-wire feeder you have the two hots (240v) a white neutral and a ground. What makes those instructions stupid is that the cooktop does not need the neutral. So all they have to say is that with the 4-wire feeder just cap off the white.

Now put a panel in a room that requires AFCI protection. Does that mean the main supply requires AFCI? Lets not forget all that requires AFCI is 15 and 20 amp 125 volt circuits supplying outlets in specific rooms, at least right now.A switch is not an outlet - at least right now, that has been debated some also with the requirement to have the grounded conductor at .another reason this happens is like in the situation someone wants some can lights in the ceiling but there's no way to get a wire up there so they will turn the ground into a neutral going to the original center light so that they can send a second hot up on the White and Branch off from the original light to get the can lights in.

The black conductor from your NEW cable should be hooked up to the line wire on your light. You should have 1 conductor (probably white) from each cable not connected to anything, these will be your neutrals and you can wire nut them in with the existing neutrals in the light box. Voila, now you have neutral conductors in your switch box.My off-grid inverter has a grid input as well. one of the AC-Coupler which gives grid input to the inverter didn't have any marking, it only had markings for the Ground terminal, User manual also hasn't mentioned anything, so I might have swapped L-N in that connection. I have heard that some inverters have internal Ground-N connections

But then it gets weird. The other cable also goes to the breaker box, but helpfully has a light outlet in the path. That cable, in the junction box pictured, I don't understand. The neutral wire is hanging, not connected to anything. The hot wire is spliced into the red wire heading out the left of the box. Did I do this properly or is there any risk from ground wire exposure touching something in this picture? Thanks! Attachments. IMG_4660_1492625747350.jpg. . Shouldn't do anything. They are exposed inside the box. As long as it isn't touching the hot or neutral (you would know) it is fine. Windows, Roofing, Siding, Gutters, Energy Audits, Air .I'm looking for a way to differentiate the ground v neutral wires in a box where color coding won't help. I've checked both candidate wires for an impedance voltage but they both read 0.0v. I also read on the Fluke website that under load the Hot to Ground load will measure a .

He did see 4 covered and secure junction boxes near the master bath. . I think he's right and there's a neutral touching a ground in an outlet probably. You should open all the device boxes and tighten all the connections in the panel . I heard of one time a coworker found the main feeder cable strapped to the pipe the whole underside of .Greetings everyone, I would like to replace some of my standard switches with appropriate smart switches. In the case of the 3-gang box featured in the linked photo, the neutral wires are currently unused by the existing switches and are co-terminated as a bundle of 4 in a wire nut.Hi, I was moving around a room and noticed my wife wanted her desk elsewhere. I decided to, since she would have her computer on it, check the outlet she would be moving to. It seemed old so I changed it. I noticed before I changed it that with my GFCI tester, all sockets on this circuit were fine (2 right lights solid). I also noticed that the ground wires were sloppily twirled .Hope this fits in a single gang US junction box, heard the regular version was a tight fit. Zigbee router instead of hub would be nice too . Or at least a non-neutral wire ones . I don’t need AC switching or anything like that. I’d rather just buy .

I installed a sub panel a while ago, on my garage, and did tons of research on how, what box to use, made sure to remove the ground lug in the box, the correct type of wiring, etc. But I've always treated the neutral as live so I made sure to never actually touch it, or anything else.All the accidents I have heard about is all due to job complacency. Not being afraid of electricity, is when you get hurt. Have to respect it, ask the pros questions. It's invisible and odorless. Respect it: When in doubt, don't touch it, check it with a meter, lock it out.You "sub-panel" use to be a fuse box. Someone relocated the fuses to the circuit breaker box. It's just a junction box now. The top & bottom screws are connected with a bar that is behind the insulator that was left in there. This box should be grounded back to the main panel. If the connection via the water pipe is lost, so is the low .

Skipping a few posts, I agree, some of the readings are contradictory and hard to explain. And agree the ground and neutral should only be connected at the service, as they are except for the very . I agree another junction box is huge. I doubt the ground and neutral being reversed there would do anything. . If you are grounded and touch .You really should get a voltage tester (either meter or light). You should NOT use a non-contact voltage tester, you could end up dead. (OK maybe a little melodramatic but don't trust anything the doesn't need to contact a wire.) Also test every wire to neutral and to the equipment ground (metal box or green or bare wire).Second is voltage. If the ground wire breaks or has a loose connection, it can introduce voltage on the ground wire downstream from that point. So, anything connected on the ground wire, which can include other circuits (because all ground wires are connected in a junction box) would become "hot" and become a fire or shock hazard.

Somewhere in your house wiring a neutral line is disconnected / broken / melted. You will need to open every electrical box and check the connections and splices. If you don't find anything there, do continuity tests between junction boxes. If the fault is between boxes you may need to open the walls up. Your GFCI outlets are almost certainly dead.Im guessing the neutral was touching the hot somewhere on the circuit(not sure why that wasnt flipping the breaker) cause after adjusting some of the wires and looking everything over the problem disappeared. Edit again: i need to bond my ground and neutral in my main box (i had an electrician do my breaker box so i assumed it was right)You have a hot going to ground and it is shorting out when you get the metal trim touching the metal box. I would turn the circuit off and use a multimeter on the continuity setting and check your hot to ground then neutral to ground then hot to neutral. You are not supposed to hear a sound on the meter when your preform this test.Sometimes the tools we have for voltage detection don’t show anything until disconnected from ground wire on our ground block. which has happened to me before a trailer park owner had connected our ground to the neutral of the home. to the but if he has a clear sign such as melted coax he should of immediately told you to call the power .

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A three prong outlet with neutral and ground ultimately connected in the breaker box VS A three prong outlet that really only has two conductors, but the ground has been jumped to neutral with a short piece of copper. . the sink to ground for the neutral wire of an electrical grid is every junction box on the grid. The neutral wire is a "bus .

I've added an additional 3 rooms to my house and all the lights are under a single 15amp AFCI breaker. Everything is wired with the power from the.

Why would anyone think that breaking the neutral is a good idea?

Testing for shorted Neutral and Ground Wiring

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Shocked by Neutral vs. Ungrounded

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really neutral touching a junction box heard anything|Neutral sparking in panel
really neutral touching a junction box heard anything|Neutral sparking in panel .
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