do i need a backplate for a junction box You should be able to modify the backplate that came with the light fixture by drilling holes and/or using small washers. Walters Sheet Metal, in Leesville, LA, offers service agreements for two checks a .
0 · Single gang rectangular box to round fixture
1 · Replacing vanity lights but realized no junction box : r/DIY
2 · Mounting a sconce that requires a smaller than
3 · Light fixture bracket doesn't fit junction box
4 · Junction box wrong shape/size for light
5 · Is this the right box for sconces?
6 · Installing a vanity light without the bracket : r/HomeImprovement
7 · Exterior light wall mounted doesnt need a junction box
8 · Electrical box too small/incompatible with mounting plate
9 · Electrical box mount
We recommend IP66 junction boxes with timer sockets for maximum control over exterior lighting. Install a cable entry gland for extra protection from dust and water inside electric junction boxes. Opt for a weatherproof extension lead and outdoor electrical box when storing or using electrical equipment outside.
I'm assuming the issue is the backplate on the sconce is smaller than the hole in the wall that would be left by the 4" junction box. I have a very tight space and really love this style. Any ideas would be most welcome. One will notice the exterior light has a 4.75 base backplate juntion box body that will attach to a metal plate bracket which gets screwed to the wall in this case * using . I didn't realize until I took the old one off the house today that it's got a small rectangular junction box. The brackets that came with the new (round-based) light won't even . You should be able to modify the backplate that came with the light fixture by drilling holes and/or using small washers.
Furthermore, the backplate that holds the sconces will fit over the single gang, allowing me to mount the sconce, and of course put the wire connections into the single gang . The ground location out of the box is fine, it's a steel plate connected to a steel box. However, the ground wire coming in should be connected first to the steel box, which it's .
Any light that doesn't fit snug to a junction box should have a back plate so that the wiring is fully contained in the integral box for the light. No, I don't think so. There is already a junction box .I removed the old vanity lights and realized there is no junction box (photo 2). Instead, the old vanity light had a large metal backplate (photo 3, red arrow) and all the wirings were covered .They also make plates for thermostats in junction boxes. There was no need to drill the one supplied with the ecobee. Now you have to look at that god awful screw. Hello, I'm trying to install a new light fixture in my bathroom however the "universal" mounting bracket provided doesn't seem to allow me to orient it the way I need it with my .
I'm assuming the issue is the backplate on the sconce is smaller than the hole in the wall that would be left by the 4" junction box. I have a very tight space and really love this style. Any ideas would be most welcome.
Single gang rectangular box to round fixture
One will notice the exterior light has a 4.75 base backplate juntion box body that will attach to a metal plate bracket which gets screwed to the wall in this case * using masonary tapcon screws (vs getting screwed to the junction box inside the wall of the masonary block- because one does not exist). I didn't realize until I took the old one off the house today that it's got a small rectangular junction box. The brackets that came with the new (round-based) light won't even fit in there. Is there any kind of adapter you can get, or is it a DIY kind of thing? You should be able to modify the backplate that came with the light fixture by drilling holes and/or using small washers. Furthermore, the backplate that holds the sconces will fit over the single gang, allowing me to mount the sconce, and of course put the wire connections into the single gang box. I'm using the standard blue, home-depot new construction boxes (first round ones, now the adjustable single gang-boxes).
The ground location out of the box is fine, it's a steel plate connected to a steel box. However, the ground wire coming in should be connected first to the steel box, which it's not. There should be a small threaded hole which takes a 10-32 machine screw in the box already, or you can buy self-tapping grounding screws if you have an odd box .
Any light that doesn't fit snug to a junction box should have a back plate so that the wiring is fully contained in the integral box for the light. No, I don't think so. There is already a junction box present, so the wiring is going to get stuffed in the box no matter what.
Many wall pack lights that have the junction made inside the fixture do not require a box at all as the fixture is the box. –
Replacing vanity lights but realized no junction box : r/DIY
Mounting a sconce that requires a smaller than
Light fixture bracket doesn't fit junction box
I removed the old vanity lights and realized there is no junction box (photo 2). Instead, the old vanity light had a large metal backplate (photo 3, red arrow) and all the wirings were covered inside. Based on my understanding, this is sorta okay but not as good as having a . They also make plates for thermostats in junction boxes. There was no need to drill the one supplied with the ecobee. Now you have to look at that god awful screw.
I'm assuming the issue is the backplate on the sconce is smaller than the hole in the wall that would be left by the 4" junction box. I have a very tight space and really love this style. Any ideas would be most welcome.
One will notice the exterior light has a 4.75 base backplate juntion box body that will attach to a metal plate bracket which gets screwed to the wall in this case * using masonary tapcon screws (vs getting screwed to the junction box inside the wall of the masonary block- because one does not exist).
I didn't realize until I took the old one off the house today that it's got a small rectangular junction box. The brackets that came with the new (round-based) light won't even fit in there. Is there any kind of adapter you can get, or is it a DIY kind of thing? You should be able to modify the backplate that came with the light fixture by drilling holes and/or using small washers. Furthermore, the backplate that holds the sconces will fit over the single gang, allowing me to mount the sconce, and of course put the wire connections into the single gang box. I'm using the standard blue, home-depot new construction boxes (first round ones, now the adjustable single gang-boxes).
The ground location out of the box is fine, it's a steel plate connected to a steel box. However, the ground wire coming in should be connected first to the steel box, which it's not. There should be a small threaded hole which takes a 10-32 machine screw in the box already, or you can buy self-tapping grounding screws if you have an odd box . Any light that doesn't fit snug to a junction box should have a back plate so that the wiring is fully contained in the integral box for the light. No, I don't think so. There is already a junction box present, so the wiring is going to get stuffed in the box no matter what. Many wall pack lights that have the junction made inside the fixture do not require a box at all as the fixture is the box. –
I removed the old vanity lights and realized there is no junction box (photo 2). Instead, the old vanity light had a large metal backplate (photo 3, red arrow) and all the wirings were covered inside. Based on my understanding, this is sorta okay but not as good as having a .
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do i need a backplate for a junction box|Electrical box too small/incompatible with mounting plate